South Texas Historical Association

"Lone Star Historian" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine.

During my nine months as State Historian I have attended meetings of the Texas State Historical Association, the East Texas Historical Association, and the West Texas Historical Association. The fourth state or regional historical association is the South Texas Historical Association, and it was my pleasure to meet with this delightful group on Saturday, April 27. Pat Parsons, Vice President of the STHA, arranged a one-day meeting in a most special location. Pat knew that I wanted to attend an STHA meeting, and she asked that I speak to the group about the duties and activities of the State Historian of Texas.

The Saturday meeting was held west of Three Rivers at Mission Sin Caja, a remarkable conference and recreational center with a strong historical flavor. Kurt House, a native of Three Rivers, built Mission Sin Caja on the family ranch, a property he still owns, along with three other area ranches. Geographically the region is flat brush country, but 10 miles south of Kurt's ranch is a 1,500-foot-tall mesa that long was used by Spanish explorers and other early travelers. A rumored event, described by J. Frank Dobie in Coronado's Children, involved a massacre at the mountain by Lipan Apache warriors. The victims were buried where they fell "sin cajas" - without boxes or coffins - and the plateau is known as "Mesa Sin Caja."

Kurt House has degrees in archaeology and architecture, and he has performed extensive post-graduate and field work. He is a noted collector of antique firearms, as I learned several years ago when he engaged me to speak at an event he staged at San Antonio's Buckhorn Saloon. Later I learned that he is a serious collector of various other items, and he has filled Mission Sin Caja with hundreds of artifacts from his collection. Kurt began Mission Sin Caja in 2005 ("Est. 1755 +/- 250 Years) as a memorial to his parents, and it was opened to the public in 2012. The "mission" was built of authentic indigenous materials: mesquite doors, window frames, mantles, lintels, local stone, Spanish tiles. It is furnished throughout with 18th and 19th century Spanish and Mexican furniture.

Pat and Chuck Parsons, and my wife Karon and I, spent Friday night at Mission Sin Caja. We explored every nook and cranny of the complex, and we spent the evening enjoying a cool breeze on the patio and listening to the howls of coyotes. Early the next morning I had a splendid walk on the ranch roads, sighting various species of wildlife and getting the feel of the land. About 30 members of the STHA arrived at mid-morning. After a get-acquainted period, Pat Parsons welcomed the crowd and introduced me. I spoke about the office of State Historian. handing out my business cards, talking about my activities, and recommending my blog, all in an effort to let as many Texans as possible know that there is indeed a State Historian.

The program was turned over to Kurt House, who explained the origins and purposes of Mission Sin Caja. He emphasized that while it is a hunting lodge and family recreation retreat, he promotes it as a living history museum for school children and as an educational center for groups such as the South Texas Historical Association. Kurt then conducted a building by building tour of his mission, taking time to point out one artifact after another.We all were in Historian Heaven.

Bill with President Homero Vera

Finally, STHA President Homero Vera of Sarita conducted a business meeting, after which the group reluctantly departed Mission Sin Caja. For me, it was a remarkable introduction to the South Texas Historical Association.

Kurt House addresses the STHA

VP. Pat Parsons introduces Kurt House

For more information: www.missionsincaja.com

Kurt (upper right corner) guides a chapel tour.

I was thrilled when Kurt loaned me an authentic
Rurale sombrero, complete with  eagles on the crown.

Graham

"Lone Star Historian" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published almost 40 books, half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine.

My first teaching position was in Lampasas, as 8th-grade language arts instructor and coach of junior high football, basketball, and track. During my three years at LJHS, one of my finest student-athletes was Mark Bumpus. Mark was an excellent student and a standout basketball player, as well as a member of my Sunday School class at the First Baptist Church. Today Dr. Bumpus, a graduate of Baylor and the Southwestern Theological Seminary, is pastor of the First Baptist Church of Graham. He has a keen interest in history, and he is a member of the History Commission of the Baptist General Convention of Texas.

Dr. Bumpus with Bill

Dr. Bumpus has been pastor at FBC Graham for less than a year. He had hoped to stage a men's night of fellowship and activity, and he asked me to present a Saturday evening program on "Gunfighterology." I pointed out to Mark that I've presented a version of this program for years, but never to a church audience! He laughed and told me he intended to focus on the theme of justice (in conversation he heard me emphasize that a gun is a tool, as good or as bad as the person who uses it). To illustrate the program I use replica pistols, along with different holsters, to demonstrate the evolution of revolvers and gun rigs. Of course, nothing is more dramatic than life and death conflict, and when that conflict takes place in a Western setting, a  strong appeal is generated. Mark and his staff had hoped to attract perhaps 30 men, but more than 80 attended. We enjoyed a superb steak dinner, and the men provided a responsive and enthusiastic audience. The next morning I thoroughly enjoyed the worship service, in part because I was greeted by many new friends.

At the evening service my daughter, Dr. Shellie O'Neal, performed her one-woman play about blind hymn composer Fannie J.Crosby. It was Shellie's 30th performance, and I was privileged to escort "Fannie" onto the pulpit/stage area. Shellie's play is a fine piece of musical biography, and her powerful performance moved the congregation.

1885 First Baptist Church

On previous trips to Graham I hardly had ventured away from downtown, but I had more time than usual on this pleasant weekend. I returned to the town square - actually a rectangle, a vast area that is touted as the largest town square in America. Gustavus Graham platted the townsite in 1872, a year after he and his brother Edwin settled in the area. A post office was approved in 1873, and the next year Graham was designated the seat of Young County. In 1879 Dr.  J.E. Ryus erected a masonry building on the west side of the square: he operated a drug store on the ground floor, while upstairs was the home of a federal court (until 1896, when the court was transferred to Abilene).

Museum on the square

Also on the west side of the square is the National Theater,  which has shown movies since 1919. A few doors to the north is the impressive facade of the 1921 Liberty Theater (no longer a theater, but a reminder of the post World War I era when movie theaters often were named "Victory" or "Liberty"). In the middle of the square an excellent museum is housed in the old post office.

Just west of the square is the site where, in 1877, cattlemen plagued by rustlers formed the organization now known as the Texas and Southwestern Cattle Raisers Association. Elsewhere off the square are a number of fine Victorian homes. In 1917 oil was discovered nearby, and the subsequent boom produced fine examples of early 20th-century architecture. All in all, Graham proved to be a good subject for a blog, because on several levels my weekend there proved to be an enjoyable historical experience. 

Texas Mountain Trail Writers

"Lone Star Historian" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published almost 40 books, half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine.

On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, April 12-14, I was one of the presenters at the 22^nd annual retreat of the Texas Mountain Trail Writers. The 2013 retreat was held in Fort Davis, “Where Wild Things Write.” I was initially contacted by the president of the organization, Reba Cross Seals. A retired teacher, Reba is an avid writer, and she is highly organized. Other members also are former teachers who played important roles in setting up the event. Reba’s key assistants were the two “Retreat Jefes” and the seven members of the “Retreat Posse.” For weeks before the event, I was frequently contacted by Reba or one of her capable assistants. Everyone was enthusiastic and helpful, and every detail was carefully planned.

I arrived at Fort Davis early enough to spend a couple of hours at the fort, which I first visited as a college student in 1963. A decade later I began bringing students from Panola College to the Davis Mountains and Big Bend as part of my Traveling Texas History Course, and the East Texans always enjoyed the old fort and two nights of camping in this magnificent country.

Officers' Row

Post Hospital

1910 Courthouse

1904 Presbyterian Church

Our retreat headquarters was the Mountain Tails Lodge, located just east of Fort Davis on a hill overlooking the town. I was surprised and elated to learn that the owner is Scott Turner, a friend from the Wild West History Association. Scott and his lovely wife Jenny have operated the lodge for less than a year, along with a river rafting service along the Rio Grande through the towering canyons of Big Bend. Scott and Jenny were gracious hosts,  providing excellent meals and looking constantly to our needs.

Checking in on Friday afternoon, I soon drove through the mountains to Alpine, where an opening reception was held at the Front Street Book Store. It was a delightful evening, with delicious refreshments and warm company. More than 40 men and women attended the retreat. Many were from Alpine or Fort Davis, but some came in from other parts of the state, and others came from Colorado, New Mexico, and California. There were fiction writers, poets, and non-fiction writers.

Bookstore reception

At mid-morning on Saturday, Juan Perez was the opening speaker, and he would conduct another session during the afternoon. Tall and handsome and charming, Juan is a military veteran and a history teacher. He writes poetry, often with a horror twist, and two years ago he was voted Poet Laureate of the San Antonio Poets’ Association. Nina Amir, a non-fiction writer and editor from San Jose, California, also presented a session on Saturday, and another on Sunday morning. On Saturday morning I spoke about “An Author’s 3 R’s: Reading’, `Riting, and Research,” emphasizing nuts and bolts of writing techniques. On Saturday evening I was the after-dinner speaker: “An Author’s Journey Through Texas History.” Audience members were responsive to all of the sessions, and I enjoyed numerous lively conversations with attendees seeking tips on how to write and how to publish those writings. I had the pleasure of autographing a number of books, and of making many new friends.

Reba Cross Seals opening the first session

Juan Perez

On the drive back I stopped to stretch my legs at historic Presidio de San Saba, just west of Menard. My most recent visit was last August, as I described in my second blog. But I wanted to see again the recent improvements, and I had the grand fortune to be welcomed by Jim Goodall, the new supervisor of the park. Jim enthusiastically pointed out to me the letters “BOWI” carved into a stone at the main entrance. Jim Bowie visited this site in 1831 in his search for a lost Spanish silver mine, and I had walked through the gateway many times without noticing his carved name. Jim Goodall took me to the San Saba River, just beyond the remains of the south wall. Spanish soldados reportedly dug a tunnel from the wall to the river, and when they departed buried a cannon in the tunnel. Jim showed me his recent discovery of the likely exit of the tunnel along the riverbank, and told me of the arrangements he is making to explore the site properly. It is an enormously exciting prospect!

Nina Amir

Jim Goodall

Tunnel opening

WTHA, 2013

"Lone Star Historian" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published almost 40 books, half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine.

The 90th Annual Meeting of the West Texas Historical Association was held April 5 and 6 on the beautiful campus of Midwestern State University in Wichita Falls. An enthusiastic crowd exceeding 200 attended, providing large numbers for programs, the WTHA banquet and luncheon, and the display room of booksellers. In between sessions clusters of attendees staged their own lively discussions.

The Friday-Saturday meeting actually began on Thursday, with several activities for early arrivals. More than 20 WTHA members gathered in Henrietta, where the Clay County Historical Commission proudly opened the superb museum they have created in the old county jail, as well as the handsome domed 1884 court house. In the evening there was a large informal gathering at a barbeque restaurant near the Best Western University Inn. 

1890 Clay County Jail/Museum

Friday morning began with two nine o'clock sessions: "Tracking the Nineteenth Century Texas Rangers" and "Buffalo Hunters and West Texas Trails." Experts explored these two exciting topics, and for the next day and a half, highly regarded authors and researchers presented the latest findings on a broad array of West Texas historical topics. Each presentation period was an hour and 15 minutes in length, and there were two or three sessions featuring at least three speakers during each period. Sometimes an attendee would listen to the opening speaker in one session, then scurry to another session in hope of hearing a later speaker. 

Award-winning author
Bill Neal and President
Marisue Potts.

On Friday evening at the downtown Kemp Center for the Arts, a reception was held in honor of President Marisue Potts. A banquet followed, and the featured speaker was the eloquent John Miller Morris, Professor of Geography at the University of Texas at San Antonio. 

The 90th Annual Meeting climaxed at noon on Saturday, with the Awards and Business Lunch. Two new WTHA Fellows were announced, past presidents David Murrah and Darlene Bilinghausen. It was announced that another Fellow, accomplished author Paul Carlson, was not in attendance because on this weekend he was being admitted to the prestigious Texas Institute of Letters. The Rupert Richardson Best Book Award was presented to Pat Dearen for Devil's River, while Clint Chambers received the Ruth Leggett Jones Best Article Award. There were other awards, followed by the election of officers. J.T. Tillapaugh of Odessa College was named the new president (and I was honored to be elected vice president). The final event was a delightful presidential address by lifelong rancher Marisue Potts, "Don't Bring a Mare to the Roundup: The Cowboys' Unwritten Rules." Afterward participants lingered to say goodbyes, and everyone already is looking forward to the 91st Annual Meeting in Odessa. 

All WTHA sessions were held at Midwestern's
Clark Student Center.

In the Exhibitor's Room Ron Chrisman,
Director of the UNT Press, examines a book
while Dr. Harold Weiss looks on. 

Three of the Texas Ranger presenters (L to R):
Michael Collins, Tom Crum, and Donaly Brice.

Large crowd at the Saturday luncheon. 

New President J.T. Tillapaugh

Allen Anderson presents
book award to Pat Dearen 

WTHA Executive Director
Tai Kreidler

Gary Nall with new Fellow David Murrah

Salado

"Lone Star Historian" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published almost 40 books, half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine.

Recently my wife Karon and I spent the night at the Stagecoach Inn in Salado. For more than a half a century I have had the pleasure of stopping in Salado - to eat at the superb restaurant at the Stagecoach Inn, to overnight at the Inn, to tour students of my Traveling Texas History Course through the historic town, and to shop (actually, to walk to historic sites while my wife shopped). One weekend ago I took another walk around Salado, this time armed with a camera in order to blog about one of the most charming and popular small towns in Texas.

I hiked up the hill to the site of old Salado College, now handsomely stabilized and landscaped. Before Texas A&M became the first publicly-funded college in Texas, more than 50 private - and often denominational - colleges were founded, beginning during the Republic of Texas. There was Rutersville College, San Augustine "University," Galveston University, and Marshall University. Baylor was established at Independence in 1845, and Austin College in Huntsville four years later. Since there were no high schools in Texas, most of these grandly-named colleges and universities taught teenaged students, and subject matter was mostly on the secondary level. But there was a growing demand for education, and private colleges proliferated.

Bell County needed an institution of higher learning, and in October 1859 a tent meeting convened at Salado Springs to pursue the project. Salado Springs, a campsite for Native Americans for centuries, was an attractive location. Since 1852 a stagecoach line between Waco and Austin had used Salado Springs as a stopover, and a post office was opened at Salado in 1852. At the tent meeting the Salado Joint Stock Company was organized, and Col. E.S.C. Robertson - son of area colonizer Sterling C. Robertson - donated 100 acres of land. A two-story stone building was erected in 1860, and by the outbreak of the Civil War 124 students were enrolled. After the war attendance averaged 250 for several years, and in 1871 there was a two-story addition to the building. During 24 years of operation, Salado College was funded solely by tuition.

After Salado was missed by the railroad, the town declined, dropping to a population of 200. In 1885 the building was turned over to the Salado public schools, and eventually the property was abandoned and overgrown - until the reclamation of recent years. Governors James and Miriam A. Ferguson attended Salado College, and so did historian Charles Ramsdell, and Lieutenant Governor Edgar Witt.

Elsewhere around town I photographed commercial buildings, historic homes, and the old Shady Villa Inn, which was transformed in the 1940s by the Dion Van Bibbers family into the Stagecoach Inn, home of a nationally famous restaurant. Salado has been revitalized, and much of the new construction has adhered to the style of pre-existing buildings.

Judge Orville Tyler built this hillside home in 1857.

Future governor James Ferguson roomed at this
boarding house while a student at Salado College.

Built ca. 1870, this home became the residence
of a succession of Salado doctors.